Plaiting-gage.



UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

PAUL SCHOEN, OF TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY DIRECT AND MESNEASSIGNMENTS, OF ONE-HALF TO HALL, HARTWELL & 00., OF TROY, NEW YORK, AFIRM, AND ONE-HALF TO PAUL E. OHOEN, OF TROY,

' NEW YORK.

PLAlTlNG-GAGE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed February 18,1905. Serial No. 246,332.

Patented June 18, 1907- T0 at whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, PAUL SOHOEN, a citizen of the United States,residing at Troy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Plaiting-Gages, of whichthe following is a specification.

The invention relates to such improvements and consists of the novelconstruction and combination of parts hereinafter described andsubsequently claimed.

Reference may be had to the accompanying drawings, and the referencecharacters marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar characters refer to similar parts in the several figurestherein.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a view in perspective showing my improvedgage applied to a bosom strip of fabric having one plait formed therein,the gage and strip being adapted for use in making bosoms havingeighteen plaits in each side or half. Fig. 2 is a similar view showingthe strip provided with seven of such plaits.

In the manufacture of plaited shirtbosoms and the like it has been foundexpedient to fold the fabric into plaits by means of a plaitingattachment applied to a sewing machine, whereby the folding andstitching of a plait are simultaneously performed, and in many cases theplaits are thus formed in a long strip of fabric which is afterward cutup into short sections of bosom length. In pursuing this method ofmaking bosoms, however, much difficulty is experienced in securinguniformity in the laying of the plaits and the uniform and exact widthof the plaited bosom strip.

It is of great importance that the plaited strip should be exactly of apredetermined width, as the bosom must fit exactly the bosom opening cutby means of a pattern in the front of the shirt-body. If the bosomstripbe of less than the proper width it will not fill the bosom opening andis useless. If on the other hand it be wider than the bosom opening itnecessitates trimming and the surplus fabric is waste and a materialloss. It will be understood that the depth or width of I the plaits isdetermined by the setting of a guide used in connection with theplaiting attachment, and that any inaccuracy in the placing of the guidewill cause a variation in the width of the plait which becomes cumu.-'lative in .the successive plaits unless corrected.

The object of my invention is to provide means for checking or provingfrom time to time as the several plaits are formed the total width ofthebosom-strip and the width and proper disposition of the several plaits.

The invention consists of a gage provided with two graduated scales, oneapplicable to the plaits, and the other to the strip as a whole, thegraduations in the one scale corresponding with and relating to therespective graduations in the other scale.

For the purpose 'of illustrating my invention I have shown in thedrawings such a gage graduated for eighteen plaits of uniform width.Beginning at the left-hand end of the gage, as shown, the same isprovided with a line or mark A located at a distance from the initialline or mark of the scale (which in this case is the end edge B of thegage) corresponding with the desired or predetermined distance from theedge C of the fabricstrip to the line of stitching D for the firstplait. To the right of the stitch-mark A are arranged along the edge ofthe gage eighteen marks or lines, forming a graduated scale, numberedconsecutively from left to right. These marks are plaiting marks andeach is located at a distance from the initial line or end B of thescale corresponding with the desiredand predetermined distance of theedge of the corresponding plait from the edge 0 of the fabric strip. Tothe right of the plaitscale and on the same side of the initial point orline is a graduated total-width scale formed by eighteen marks or linesadjacent to the edge of the gage and similarly consecutively numberedfrom right to left, that is, in the opposite direction from that of theplait-scale.

The initial line or mark E of the total width scale is at a distancefrom the left-hand end B of the gage corresponding with thepredetermined total width of the unplaited fabric-strip, while thedistance from end B of the gage to the final line numbered 18 in thesaid scale indicates the width of the fully plaited strip; and each ofsaid numbered lines or marks in the said scale is at a distance fromsaid end B of the gage corresponding with the desired predeterminedtotal width of the fabric stri upon the completion of the correspondingp ait. The distance between the terminal lines, 18, of the two scalescorresponds with the predetermined distance from the edge of the last ofthe series of plaits to the neighboring ed e of the fabricstrip which isto be attache to the edges of the shirt-body adjacent to thebosom-opening therein, when any number of the left hand scale is on thelast lait made, the corresponding number of t e right hand scale shouldbe at the right hand edge of the fabric to denote that the work iscorrect. The corresponding distances on the scales having been onceaccurately determined, the strips for the plaited bosoms can be cut ofthe exact width required without allowing any surplusage whatever, andin plaiting the stri s the operator can prove the correctness of thework from time to time by application of the gage thereto which aplication may be made after the formation 0 each plait, if desired, orfound necessary.

If upon the application of the gage any inaccuracy be discovered beforethe formation of the last plait it can be corrected by adjusting theguide used in connection with they plaiting attachment so as to take upmore or less of the fabric strip as required in the formation of thesubsequently formed plait or plaits. It will be understood that thenumber and arrangement of the marks in the two scales on the gage willvary in gages for different styles of bosoms.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. A gagefor plaiting, a predetermined pattern provided with two graduatedscales,

-tions of each indicating distances the graduations of each indicatingdistances from a common point, those of one of said scales being placedat a propriate distances from said point to in icate the predeterminedlocation of the respective plaits desired in a fabric strip, and thoseof the other scale at appropriate distances from said point to indicateeach the total predetermined width of the fabric stri upon thecompletion of the corresponding p ait each of said scales having itsgraduations identified by the same consecutive series of identificationcharacters, the series in connection with one of said scales beingarranged in inverse order relatively to the other series.

2. A gage for plaiting, a predetermined pattern provided with twograduated scales, both on the same side of, and the aduaom, a commonpoint, those of one of said scales being numbered consecutively in onedirection and being placed at appropriate distances to indicate thepredetermined location of the respective plaits desired in a fabricstrip, and those ofthe other scale being consecutively numbered in theopposite direction with the same numbers and placed to indicate each thetotal predetermined width-of the fabric strip from said point upon thecompletion of the corresponding plait.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand this 4th day ofFebruary, 1905.

PAUL SCHOEN. Witnesses:

FRANK O. CURTIS, E. M. OREILLY.

